As a designer, I am constantly searching for design inspiration. The quest for innovation is always keen in me. Also as a designer, it’s no great wonder that I am attracted to consumer products that are simplistic in form and execution. Bicycles, snowboards, a well thought out mobile phone, and more. I thoroughly appreciate minimalist solutions to otherwise complex questions. And quite frankly, our design efforts are often driven by clients’ budgetary constraints that just won’t allow for anything but the most basic execution. Oh so many times have I had a client ask for sexy and cheap. I know. The stock answer (Only partially in jest) is “Pick one”. But a client wants what a client wants and it’s our job to deliver. So, simplicity typically rules the day.
Conversely, I also find fascination and inspiration in elegant complexity as well. A mechanism that is perceived by the user to be simple to operate, but has complex (Hidden) inner workings that took hundreds of design hours, CAD iterations, prototypes, focus groups, marketing pushback etc. These systems are fascinating and also an excellent source of education.
It’s with this in mind that I draw every designer’s attention to watches. Yes, watches. What I’m really referencing here, are upscale horological and chronological machines. For watch designers, the design feature list is long and manufacturing challenges are daunting. Many complex pieces take years to fully conceptualize, prototype and produce.
These tiny machines hit every element of the highest level of technology available. Yet they also tap into a rich history of craftsmanship that reaches back thousands of years. You’ll find true artisans sitting alongside engineers and CAD operators at the same desk with engravers.
Today’s manufacturers are pushing the envelope in both design and materials. Since every watch accomplishes basically the same thing – Tell the time – watch designers are faced with unearthing a new way to do just that while synchronizing functionality with aesthetics and an identifiable brand. i.e. Stand out in the industry. Sound familiar to any of your projects?
Conversely, I also find fascination and inspiration in elegant complexity as well. A mechanism that is perceived by the user to be simple to operate, but has complex (Hidden) inner workings that took hundreds of design hours, CAD iterations, prototypes, focus groups, marketing pushback etc. These systems are fascinating and also an excellent source of education.
It’s with this in mind that I draw every designer’s attention to watches. Yes, watches. What I’m really referencing here, are upscale horological and chronological machines. For watch designers, the design feature list is long and manufacturing challenges are daunting. Many complex pieces take years to fully conceptualize, prototype and produce.
These tiny machines hit every element of the highest level of technology available. Yet they also tap into a rich history of craftsmanship that reaches back thousands of years. You’ll find true artisans sitting alongside engineers and CAD operators at the same desk with engravers.
Today’s manufacturers are pushing the envelope in both design and materials. Since every watch accomplishes basically the same thing – Tell the time – watch designers are faced with unearthing a new way to do just that while synchronizing functionality with aesthetics and an identifiable brand. i.e. Stand out in the industry. Sound familiar to any of your projects?
An excerpt from an article on the development of the Harry Winston Opus V by Ian Skellern…
...Frei drew up further sketches on the satellite theme and finally the layout of that radical system was agreed. Büsser had stressed that central to the Opus series was the merger of the DNA of Harry Winston and the independent watchmaker. Feeling that the satellites represented URWERK, they consequently searched for a complication to represent Harry Winston. As Harry Winston is well known for its use of retrogrades, the idea of a retrograde minute soon emerged– a decision Baumgartner nearly came to regret!
...Frei drew up further sketches on the satellite theme and finally the layout of that radical system was agreed. Büsser had stressed that central to the Opus series was the merger of the DNA of Harry Winston and the independent watchmaker. Feeling that the satellites represented URWERK, they consequently searched for a complication to represent Harry Winston. As Harry Winston is well known for its use of retrogrades, the idea of a retrograde minute soon emerged– a decision Baumgartner nearly came to regret!
… URWERK and Harry Winston now had just over twelve months in which to turn a technical drawing of something never dreamed of before - let alone constructed - into a functioning and reliable timepiece. Video of the amazing functionality of the Harry Winston Opus V
Video of CNC Ops on the Opus V Casing
Video of CNC Ops on the Opus V Casing
Watch designers utilize CAD systems, FEA, CFD, casting, machining, forging, surface blasting and etching, and so much more. The latest designs are even utilizing silicon growth technologies to produce parts that are temperature and humidity stable. Something that is a must for a watch to maintain accuracy.
A word of caution though. As you slowly immerse yourself in the world of complex watches, you may also find yourself becoming entranced by the industry and with the right amount of disposable income, an owner of a fine timepiece. (Or 3)
The pride of my collection is the Maurice LaCroix Reveil Globe. A machine with three time zones represented by an equal number of differing mechanisms.
Just how complex can these time pieces become? Many machines command prices upwards of $700,000US and might have a limited run of 20 pieces or less. The design and manufacturing lifecycle investment can be immense.
Just how complex can these time pieces become? Many machines command prices upwards of $700,000US and might have a limited run of 20 pieces or less. The design and manufacturing lifecycle investment can be immense.
The investment in your design capabilities should be so intricate. Both you and your clients would benefit from such an endeavor and you should address your continuing education with the vigor and profundity that you and your clients deserve.
Watch this video of the Jeager Lecoultre GyroTourbillon2 and wrap your head around the size of the engine and the complexity of the mechanism.
I could really go on for days about watch mechanisms and designs, but I won’t. This is a blog not a book. And many books by well versed industry experts have been written on the subject.
So, what’s the real point here? In plain terms, designers, you MUST continue to find inspiration and contest designers-block and/or the potential loss of your job/business because you have risen to the level of your incompetence. Why watches as case studies? Because it’s all in there: Industrial design, kinematic systems, miniaturization, advanced use of existing and new materials, extreme manufacturing challenges, and so much more. And it’s all contained in a robust package that you wear as art. A more concise example of the ultimate design challenge doesn’t exist. Which is why you should examine the watch industry as a whole and watch mechanisms and designs as an exercise.
Watch this video of the Jeager Lecoultre GyroTourbillon2 and wrap your head around the size of the engine and the complexity of the mechanism.
I could really go on for days about watch mechanisms and designs, but I won’t. This is a blog not a book. And many books by well versed industry experts have been written on the subject.
So, what’s the real point here? In plain terms, designers, you MUST continue to find inspiration and contest designers-block and/or the potential loss of your job/business because you have risen to the level of your incompetence. Why watches as case studies? Because it’s all in there: Industrial design, kinematic systems, miniaturization, advanced use of existing and new materials, extreme manufacturing challenges, and so much more. And it’s all contained in a robust package that you wear as art. A more concise example of the ultimate design challenge doesn’t exist. Which is why you should examine the watch industry as a whole and watch mechanisms and designs as an exercise.
Here's some homework:
A few examples of forward thinking in the watch industry (And some of my favorite manufacturers): MB&F, UWERK, Jacob & Co, HD3, Jaeger LeCoultre.
Study the development process of the Harry Winston Opus V. (A joint venture between Felix Baumgertner of URWERK fame and Harry Winston.) By reading this excellent article by Ian Skellern.
Subscribe to International Watch and WatchTime magazines. Both are excellent resources and go into exacting detail of watch designs and industry challenges.
Don’t get complacent in your work. Look about you for new ways to apply mechanisms and aesthetic applications and continue to grow as a designer.
Special thanks to Ian Skellern for allowing use of images and excerpts from his article on the Opus V.
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